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ASK THE CHEF: Plenty at stake: perfect at-home steak
Lancaster New Era
Published: Sep 03, 2008
08:59 EST
By JIM COLEMAN, Staff Writer

The quality of meals determines satisfaction.
 
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Q. I have become the "cook at home." I enjoy all types of cooking, especially grilling. My question is: How in the heck do you get a steak at home to taste like a great restaurant steak? Is it even conceivable? — Mark C.
A. When I do go out for dinner, one of the things I seldom order is a steak. That's because it is not only conceivable to get a great steak at home; it is very simple to accomplish and certainly a lot cheaper. That being said, there are a couple of things that must be done to be able to re-create that "restaurant magic."

First is picking the right quality of meat and the right cut of meat. Expensive steakhouses aren't buying low-grade cuts of meat and working miracles with them. They are buying USDA premium cuts of meat, such as USDA Prime or Certified Angus. In other words, you get what you pay for. It doesn't mean that you can't find quality meat in the grocery store, but you may have to really search for it. And any time you see a private label, or a grocery-store chain has its own brand, you can bet it's not USDA Prime. If a store sells USDA Prime, they're going to let you know it, and they're going to charge you for it.

Which brings us to the second point: When it comes to an expensive steak restaurant, the cut counts. Typical high-end cuts are filet chateaubriand, porterhouse, NY strip, prime rib or the individual grilled cut, which is a ribeye. These are premium cuts that have lots of marbling, which gives them a bunch of flavor and makes them very juicy. You don't see a lot of shoulder roast or top blade of brisket at the spiffy restaurants — very little flank steak or London broil, either. They are using the highest-quality cuts, which are hard to screw up. In the end, no matter how they are cooked, you get a better product.

In most restaurants, the two best methods to cook these premium cuts are grilling or pan-searing. In either cooking technique, high heat is a crucial element. Mark, the following tips will help you create your perfect restaurant steak at home:

• When you turn your steak as it cooks, do not use a fork or anything that can puncture your meat. Puncturing your steak during cooking will allow the juices to escape, causing it to lose moisture, flavor and tenderness.

• It would make any steakhouse grill-man cringe to see you checking your steak with a knife to see if it has reached the desired doneness. Using a meat thermometer is acceptable; however, if you use it more than once, you are puncturing the meat too much (See above.). The best way to gauge the doneness of your steak is to touch it. If there is no give, you better like it well-done, because it's too late. If you touch it, and your thumb goes all the way in, you are looking at a rare piece of meat. It may take you a time or two, but once you find the touch equal to the steak you enjoy, remember it, so you can create your perfect steak every time.

• Do not take your steak right from the refrigerator to the heat. All protein, especially steaks, should sit at room temperature for a full 30 minutes before cooking. It's amazing how all home grill masters miss this important step. It is the same principle as letting your meat rest before you slice into it. You need to let the juices redistribute, right? Well, you need to let the cells open up and relax before the meat hits the heat. If you place a cold steak on a hot surface, it will be tough.

• The thickness of the cut of meat is also important. Restaurants have the ability to order certain cuts to their specifications, or to cut the meat themselves. Most good cuts are between ¾ and 3 inches, depending on the type of steak. Oftentimes, grocery stores do not carry steaks this thick, making it more difficult for home cooks to sear at the proper temperature and not overcook the meat. Buy the thickest cuts you can find, and watch them carefully while they cook.
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• As mentioned above, all restaurants cook with very high heat. If you want a restaurant-style steak at home, remember to keep your grill or range hot, hot and hotter. If you are grilling outside, keep the grill lid closed. If cooking inside with your cast-iron skillet, the smoke alarm should be going off!

Since I don't have a recipe for you, other than buying high-quality cuts of meat, here are a couple of seasoning mixes that you can use and enjoy on your steaks. Put them on right before you are ready to cook.

Steak Rub No. 1

2 tablespoons ground cumin

1 tablespoon ground paprika

1 teaspoons ground ginger

1 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 teaspoons cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

Blend first 6 ingredients in small bowl. Mix in oil to form smooth paste. Rub mixture over steaks.


Steak Rub No. 2

1 cup hot chili powder

2 tablespoons cayenne

2 tablespoons fresh ground pepper

4 tablespoons garlic powder

3 teaspoons dried thyme

3 teaspoons dried oregano

1 teaspoon cumin

Mix all ingredients together. Use what you need, then store remainder in an airtight container and keep in a cool, dark place.


Jim Coleman is a McClatchy-Tribune columnist. Send your questions to

ChefColeman@aol.com.

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