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The first step for a mortar-set brick sidewalk, is to pull strings to determine the perimeter of the space. The measurement is based on the width and length of the bricks used, taking into account an estimated ½-inch joint between bricks, according to Jerry Stoltzfus, owner of J & S Masonry, 369 S. Belmont Road, Paradise.
A standard brick measures 3 5/8 inches wide by 7 5/8 inches long and 2¼ inches thick. Determine what brick pattern, such as herringbone or basket weave design, is going to be used and plot out the space to be excavated. Pull strings between stakes to visually create the finished project's border. Stretch strings between stakes during various stages of the process to keep things lined up and running true.
Before committing to the measurement, it's not a bad idea to lay out a row of the bricks, complete with the intended spacing, and measure the finished product.
GRUNT WORK
Stoltzfus suggests digging out a good 10 inches below grade, with the intention of placing about 4 inches of clean stone and 4 inches of concrete. Wood forms, made of 2-by-4s, are set just to the outside of what will be the finished concrete base indicated by strings along both sides. To determine the height of the forms, subtract the thickness of the brick and half of mortar from the eventual finished height of the sidewalk.
In many cases, the location of the sidewalk and its pitch is predetermined because it runs between two permanent structures, such as a house or steps to another set of steps or a sidewalk. It's important that there is adequate pitch so any water that falls on the sidewalk will run away from the house.
Place stakes every 48 inches or so apart on the outside of the wood forms to keep them from pushing out. Drive screws from the outside toward the opening where the sidewalk will be poured. The screws can be removed and the forms pulled off once the sidewalk is cured.
Stoltzfus likes to use rebar and reinforcing wire to strengthen the pour. If the house is masonry, he drills 4-inch deep holes into the house in a couple locations so the rebar can tie the house to the new sidewalk and keep the pad from moving. The reinforcing wire is simply cut to fit between the forms and dropped into place. As the concrete is poured, lift the reinforcing wire slightly to sandwich it in the concrete, positioning it somewhere in the middle of the pour.
Before working batches of concrete into the forms, a form-free oil is sprayed on the inside of the boards, much like cooking spray to keep foods from sticking to the pan. "When you strip the forms, the concrete falls right off," Stoltzfus said.
The soupy concrete mixture should be worked with a float and screed off so it's level and will create a uniform base for the bricks. Fill the concrete to the top of the forms, which were set so that a layer of brick and about half of mortar mix will reach the eventual sidewalk height.
BRICK TOP
After allowing the sidewalk to cure overnight, remove the forms. It's time to start seeing the brick pattern unfold and look like finished product.
Stoltzfus uses a 75-pound bag of Type S mortar mix, which is a high strength variety, to 200 pounds of sand. A mixer works best to keep the mortar consistent and the installer from working much harder than necessary. (Towable, 8-horsepower mortar mixers can be rented for about $50 for four hours or $70 for a day's use, according to Cheri Wagner, owner of Rental World, 1763 Columbia Ave.)
The temperature will determine how long the installer will be able to work with the bricks before the mortar gets too hard. Stoltzfus suggests spreading a ½-inch thick bed of the mortar over the width of the sidewalk extending out about 1 to 2 feet. Position the brick into the bed with adequate spacing — ideally, ½ inch — for the grout. The concrete base won't take much finishing skill because it's simply structural, but the brick placement and spacing takes a little more talent and attention to detail.
Again, guide strings work wonders. A 4-foot level can multitask as a level as well as a straight edge to keep the row from going concave or convex.
Once a couple of rows are placed into the mortar, a grout bag that resembles a professional squeeze icing bag is filled with the same mortar and used to fill the joints. Use a jointing tool to give the grout lines a clean finish. Any excess mortar should be wiped off as the rows advance, but the surface will be completely cleaned the following day with an acid wash. It makes life easier, too, if any excess that squeezed out the sides along the edges is cleaned off as well.
FINISHING UP
After the brick installation and grout is allowed to cure for 12 to 15 hours, an acid wash is used over the entire surface. For safety reasons, Stoltzfus said, it's important to wear goggles, rubber gloves, pants and long sleeves. "(The acid) cleans off excess mortar and brings out the natural color of the mortar and brick," said Stoltzfus.
Relief joints are important at this point to give the sidewalk an acceptable place to crack when the freeze-and-thaw monster grabs hold. Using a circular saw with a masonry blade, Stoltzfus makes relief cuts between 4 and 5 feet apart, figuring location by dividing the overall length of the sidewalk. The cuts extend through the entire thickness of the brick as well as about an inch into the concrete below.
Avoid running these cuts in grout lines, Stoltzfus said, because eventually the cut grout will crack out.
Now, it's time to pull on the gardening gloves and grab the hoe to start landscaping the area surrounding the edges and sidewalk.
E-mail: rmcroberts@lnpnews.com
